Sounds Too Simple
To Work?

You won't need Power Steering with our system!

Sounds Too Simple to Work?

How much time and money have you spent trying to gain control of your sleds?

To extend the life of the rubber stops reduce the pressure on the shims. This can be done by raising either the front or the rear of the sled.

Everyone is entitled to their opinions but that does not make them right! You can fight or ignore the “Laws of Physics” but you cannot overcome them! You have to change the equation and that is exactly what Ski Savers and shims do. The combination of their effects makes them the best solution for the best price! To get the best results you need to use them together in a combination that suits your riding style.

I have read many chatrooms posts that love aftermarket skis. After studying the wear pattern of their wear rods I have come to the conclusion that most of the benefits attributed to aftermarket skis, even those written about in magazines, are probably due to the use of longer carbides. (I think most of the comments about aftermarket skis involve 7 ½” to 9” carbides. USI Catalog 1998 Stock OEM skis come with 3” to 4” turning carbide so it is not an apples to apples comparison). It is not that I think aftermarket skis are bad, it is just that I think your $300 to $500. could be better spent on a snowmobile trip. Adding inexpensive Ski Savers and FREE shims to any ski makes them work much better and last longer.

The reason I came to this conclusion is that both the OEM and aftermarket wear rods wear heavy on the front. ( SEE- Typical carbide rod wear pattern, Used Shaper Bars, Aftermarket plastic ski wear patterns, Why Shims?). This wear pattern demonstrates the weight is focused on the front, jamming the rods into the ruts of other sleds. Because there is so much pressure on the front, the back of the turning carbide shows little wear, indicating it was not fully functional. With pressure 4-6 inches in front of the spindle, it stands to reason that snowmobilers still complain about increased steering effort, especially below 35 mph, darting and even diving when using aftermarket skis. The skis with really deep keels have only limited darting because they blast their wear rods deeper than the rest and because there are fewer of them. On hardpack and ice the skis do not come into play because only the wear rods are making contact.

With the industry’s constant smoke screen, I can see how this could sound arrogant, even off the wall, but years of positive customer feedback cannot be denied. I know they have been telling you to adjust ski alignment, ski pressure, rear suspension, dual runners, longer carbide, aftermarket skis and more. In the end it is always your fault because you have not spent enough time or money on your sled. The truth is they can mask some of the darting but only by introducing another negative, i.e. Ski Alignment - the more toe you have the faster the carbide is scrubbed dull. ( I recommend setting Zero toe-in and letting the slop determine any toe-out. Of course, replace worn parts). Increasing ski pressure – increases darting, wears the front of the wear rod faster and dulls the front of the turning carbide faster. Reducing ski pressure – reduces what carbide penetration there was so the sled pushes even more in the corners. Rear suspension – i.e. Polaris developed the Accu-Trak dual wear rod when they added the M-10 suspension because the extra height at the rear shifted so much more weight to the skis they had to produce a different profile to the ground. Dual runners – snow builds up between the rods in a turn, lifting the ski, so they push in the corners, plus they create more drag. (See –
Why we do not offer dual runners rods, Temporary Fix, 1995 ZR 580, 2004 GSX 600 HO) Some riders have put a Dooly on just one ski and been satisfied. However, trees grow on both sides of the trail so why would you restrict your ability to turn one way? Longer carbide – going from a 4” carbide to a 6” carbide on an out of balance ski, only adds 1” of functional carbide to the front, for a maximum of about 1 ½” to 2” of contact. Aftermarket skis – similar profiles follow similar ruts, even harder when the skis are running downhill. (See –Mr. Sled '08 Nytro, Turning on water and powder!) Snowmobilers can outsmart themselves with too many adjustments or wrong combinations. After lots of trial and error they can settle on a combination that does not let them get the full potential of their sled. (See – Dootalk ski darting)
NONE OF THESE ADJUSTMENTS CHANGE HOW THE SKIS OR TURNING CARBIDE ARE PRESENTED TO THE GROUND!
THE PROOF IS – THE HEAVY WEAR ON THE WEAR RODS HAS STAYED ON THE FRONT!!!

I came out with 3/16” Ski Savers for 1992. I had been researching a way to make ski skins without using expensive dies. I noticed the heaviest wear on the skins was always next to the wear rods. I developed the Ski Savers instead of skins because functionally they did 95% of what skins do, at a fraction of the cost. They can be used on steel skis, ski skins and plastic skis. Ski Savers are an inexpensive throw-away item that protects the ski keel while limited how far the host bar can fall into ruts. Since 1993, I have been providing shims from Ski Saver material. At first, just for a few models that I knew about. Since that time I have received many favorable comments about the diminished darting and found that more sleds worked better with them. About the same time sled weight was increased on the front ends again I started making the Ski Savers ¼” thick. When I came out with 3/8” and ½” Ski Savers darting was gone even without shims. However, if you do not use shims the turning carbide will not be fully functional. You get the best results using both. The OEM sled set-up with Ski Savers and shims is usually all that is needed! The riders weight determines the only additional adjustments to the rear suspension that may be needed.

I had a snowmobiler approach me at “The Derby” to thank me for helping him sell a sled that he felt was too dangerous to sell. That was until he found the "Simple Darting Solutions" page. He followed the directions and made his own shims. He really wanted new iron so he sold the sled, but now he could sleep at night knowing the new owner was not in danger. If you make shims with different dimensions or out of rubber you will get different results!

I have had only a few snowmobilers, on chatrooms, say they did not like the effect of adding shims. I do not know what they had already done to their sleds, or even if they used my shims. I have had guys who said they have done all the adjustments including new skis and were still not satisfied. That is until they put my system on. I have also had guys with the same sled only stock put my system on and all their issues are gone. Why spend more time and money than you have to? AT LEAST, TRY THE SHIMS BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE!!! (See – Rage Shimming)

When I told snowmobilers about shimming in the beginning I told them to get the OEM 3-4 inch carbide to sit level on the pavement or running a tad up-hill. Even though all four OEM’s got their carbides to sit level on pavement for 2006 they still darted.

IF YOU DO NOT GET THE RESULTS MENTIONED check for front end damage. If there is none, go back to OEM settings. There has to be a physical difference for you to get different results than the majority! The “Laws of Physics” demand it!

To extend the life of the rubber stops reduce the pressure on the shims. This can be done by raising either the front or the rear of the sled.

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